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When compiling a list of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee familiar award-winning venues. But, tucked high among these food titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant part of north London.

An Unexpected Accolade

The compact Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. This recognition has left the owners totally shocked.

“I am totally surprised,” states the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their small place securing such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has maintained much of its former charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the food, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, toastier and more balanced taste.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this modest spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for under £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can start at many times that figure.

A Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am really pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning outside its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this culinary honour.